An Insider's View of the Open-Air Cinema at Christmas Island

After retracing my steps I headed down the third and final track -- saving the best for last. I wound through an enchanted forest of giant Tahitian chestnuts, eventually reaching a spring where fresh water bubbled from a limestone cave before cascading over a mossy rock ledge. Some of the island's Chinese population believe this waterfall to be the centre of the Earth's water universe. I felt as though I could linger there all evening, but it was a Saturday -- which meant it was time for the most popular community event on the island: the weekly outdoor movie.

This was far from your standard night at the movies. Armed with an esky of cool drinks, a stash of snacks, and a comfy cushion, I paid my five dollars and took a seat among the expectant locals. The night's offering was Pirates of the Caribbean -- a fitting choice for a far-flung, open-air cinema perched on a cliff-top with never-ending views over a moonlit ocean. Midway through the first pillaging scene, bolts of lightning punctuated the darkened horizon beyond the screen. A light sea breeze touched our faces while a flock of birds returned late to their roosts, squawking loudly overhead. For a moment I actually thought I was in the Caribbean.

As the credits rolled, locals gathered in groups to polish off their eskies and catch up on the week's gossip. I drove carefully back down the winding road from the open-air cinema, half expecting a sword-bearing bandit to leap out. Thankfully -- sort of -- all I encountered was more crabs.

--Timothy Bull